The highlight of the day was a walking tour of the Italian Market, during which we sampled wonderful cheeses, cured meats, classic Philly tomato pie [in which the sauce and homemade crust is the thing, not tons of melted cheese in what other parts of the country call pizza], homemade chips and guacamole [the Italian Market area is overlaid with people and food from other cultures who came during later waves of immigration] and finally classic Italian gelato and cannoli. When we first arrived, before everyone was ready, I sneaked off to grab an Italian lemon water ice, which is different from sorbet in that it has no egg. Very tart and refreshing. I also had an expresso, when we visited a great kitchen store and heard the story of its evolution from one Italian immigrant family to the next. We had a local guide for this part of the tour, Nina, and she was wonderful.